You bought a plant for a dark corner of your living room, Googled whether it needs a grow light, read seventeen contradictory Reddit threads, and now you’re more confused than when you started.
Same. Grow lights are one of those topics where everyone has an opinion and almost nobody agrees. After a lot of trial and error across 100+ plants, here’s what I actually know.
The short version, upfront:
- Most houseplants benefit from grow lights in winter — even if they’re near a window
- You don’t need to spend a lot to make a difference
- Purple lights are not better. They’re just cheaper to make
- Running lights for longer on a lower setting beats blasting them for two hours
My picks are below. Keep reading for the full breakdown of what to look for, what to avoid, and how to use them with Monstera specifically.
Best for serious growers
Mars Hydro TS100
I don’t have space for this in my current setup, but if you have a dedicated plant room or a big collection crammed into one corner in winter, this is the one. Professional-level light coverage, efficient to run, and your plants will visibly respond. I tested the TS1000 (the previous version) — the TS100 is the current equivalent and what I’d buy today.
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My first recommendation
Sansi LED Grow Light
This is what I’d tell most people to start with. Easy to set up (gooseneck, no hanging required), genuinely effective, cheap to run, and comes with timer options so you can set it and forget it. I’ve had mine for years. Plants visibly respond within a few weeks. It’s not pretty — I wish the gooseneck were longer — but it just works.
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Hate the look of grow lights?
Sansi Grow Bulb
The sneaky option. You screw this into any lamp you already own and suddenly it’s a grow light. No extra equipment, no ugly gooseneck, no rewiring your life. Around 150 umols with a PPFD of about 27 — enough to meaningfully supplement your plant’s light in winter, especially if it’s already near a window. Yes, it’s pricey for a bulb. It’s still good value.
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Do houseplants actually need grow lights?
Not always — but they benefit from them more often than people think.
Most UK and northern US homes don’t get enough light in winter to keep tropical houseplants happy. They’ll survive, but growth slows to a crawl and they become more vulnerable to pests and root rot (both of which are made worse by low light, not just overwatering).
Grow lights are worth it if:
- Your plants are more than a metre from a window
- You’re in the northern hemisphere and it’s winter
- You’ve noticed slower growth, smaller leaves, or more pest problems in the dark months
- You want to grow a genuinely large, fenestrated Monstera indoors
They’re probably not necessary if your plants are in a bright south- or west-facing window and you’re happy with steady, seasonal growth.
What to look for in a grow light (without the jargon)
Three things actually matter. Ignore everything else.
1. PAR or PPFD, not lumens
Lumens measure how bright light looks to human eyes. Plants don’t have eyes. What matters is PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) — the type of light plants can actually use — and PPFD, which measures how much of it is hitting the plant.
For most houseplants, you want PPFD of around 50–200 umol/m²/s at the leaf level. Monstera can handle more. Cheap lights won’t list PAR, which doesn’t mean they’re useless — just don’t rely on them for 100% of your plant’s light needs.
2. Full spectrum, not purple
There are a lot of opinions about red vs blue vs full-spectrum grow lights. The honest answer is: we don’t know what most houseplants prefer because the research is almost entirely on crops, not aroids.
What we do know: full-spectrum white lights work well, and purple lights are headache-inducing to work under. The purple ones are cheaper to manufacture, which is why they’re everywhere. Go white.
3. Longer hours at lower intensity, not shorter blasts
Light volume matters more than light intensity. Think of it like water from a hose — a wider hose at the same pressure delivers more water. A grow light running for 8 hours delivers more usable light to your plant than a powerful one running for 2 hours, even if the PPFD numbers look similar.
Practical rule: aim for 6–12 hours of grow light per day in winter, and let natural light do the work the rest of the time.
(I think this is why my plants do so well in summer – daylight hours in the UK are LONG).
The best grow lights for houseplants — tested and ranked
I have personally tested all of these on my own plants — except Barrina, which I’ve included because everyone I respect recommends it. I’ll flag that clearly.
★ Sansi LED grow lights — my first grow light recommendation
Price: $ – $$ (various sizes)
Who it’s for: People who want their first proper grow light without a complicated setup. Great for dark bookshelves, corners, and anyone who wants to see actual growth rather than just survival.
What I love: effective, cheap to run, comes with timer options, easy to position with the gooseneck. Plants respond to it noticeably within a few weeks.
The one thing that’s annoying: It’s ugly. I mean, look at it. The gooseneck could also be longer — mine barely reaches where I want it. But I’ve had mine for years and it just works.
★ Sansi grow bulb — the sneaky option
Price: $
Who it’s for: Anyone who hates the look of grow lights but wants the benefit. Also good if you already have a lamp you love and just want to upgrade the bulb.
What I love: You screw it into any existing lamp. That’s it. Done. It gives you roughly 150 umols and a PPFD of about 27 — enough to supplement your plant’s light meaningfully without rewiring your life.
The one thing that’s annoying: Spending $15 on a bulb feels wrong, even though it’s good value for what you’re getting. Also, you’ll want the light positioned above the plant if possible, which means your lamp placement matters.
★ Cheap Amazon grow lights (USB gooseneck) — the beginner option
Price: $
Who it’s for: Students, people in rented accommodation, or anyone who just wants to give their pothos a bit of a top-up in a dark room.
What I love: Cheap. Plug in. Done. These USB-powered gooseneck lights are not going to grow you a record-breaking Monstera, but they’ll keep your plants from sulking through winter and they’re dead easy to move around.
The one thing that’s annoying: Limited power — because they run from a USB, they’re never going to be particularly strong. Good for supplemental light, not as a sole light source. There are also prettier options now if that matters to you.
★ Mars Hydro TS1000 — for serious growers
Price: $$ – $$$
Who it’s for: Anyone with a dedicated plant corner or room who wants proper, year-round growth. Also excellent if you have a large collection and want one light to rule them all.
What I love: Professional-level coverage, wide area lit, cheap to run once you have it set up. Plants love it love it. I tested the TS1000 and the growth difference was obvious.
The one thing that’s annoying: You have to hang it or suspend it, which is a faff. Not a ‘plug in and forget’ situation. Also not cheap upfront. Oh, and if you grow baby plants to close to the light they produce white leaves. Not in a ‘ooo variegation’ way; in a ‘aaah that’s gonna die way.’
★ Bestva BP 1000 — the budget serious grower option
Price: $ -$$
Who it’s for: Someone who wants the Sansi or Mars Hydro quality without paying as much. The Bestva punches above its price point.
What I love: Professional specs without the professional price tag. Also better-looking than the Mars Hydro if aesthetics matter — it’s a sleeker design. Cheap to run.
The one thing that’s annoying: Like the Mars Hydro, it needs to be suspended. Not a desk lamp situation.
Honourable mention: Barrina grow lights
Price: $
I haven’t personally tested the Barrina lights, so I’m not going to pretend I have. Buuuut I’m including them because virtually everyone I follow in the houseplant world uses and loves them for plant shelves — they’re the standard recommendation for shelf setups and apparently brilliant.
If you’re building a dedicated plant shelf, these are probably what you want. I’ll update this once I’ve tried them myself.
Grow lights comparison table
If you’re a skimmer (I see you), here’s everything in one place:
| Product | Price | Pros | Cons | Best for |
| Sansi LED (gooseneck) | $$ | Easy to set up, timer, effective | Ugly; gooseneck could be longer | ★★★★☆ First grow light |
| Sansi grow bulb | $ | Drop into any existing lamp | Feels pricey for a bulb | ★★★★☆ Hate the look of lights |
| Cheap Amazon (USB) | $ | Ultra cheap, plug-and-go | Low power — top-up only | ★★★☆☆ Students / casual use |
| Mars Hydro TS1000* | $$-$$$ | Professional coverage, wide area, efficient | Needs suspending; setup faff | ★★★★★ Serious growers |
| Bestva BP 1000 | $$ | Pro specs, prettier than Mars Hydro, cheaper | Also needs suspending | ★★★★★ Budget serious growers |
| Barrina (not tested) | $ | YouTube’s favourite shelf light | Not personally tested | ★★★★☆ Plant shelves (unverified) |
Will normal LED lights work instead of grow lights?
For supplemental light only — and only if kept very close to the plant.
A regular LED bulb doesn’t produce enough of the right light spectrum to replace a grow light. But if your plant is near a window and you just want to top up its light for a few extra hours a day, a regular lamp kept close (we’re talking practically touching) can make a difference.
A better budget option: search for warehouse or commercial LED lights. They’re much brighter than standard bulbs, don’t have ‘grow light’ in the name (so they’re cheaper), and work reasonably well as an alternative. They won’t list PAR, but they’ll outperform a regular bulb comfortably.
How to use grow lights with Monstera specifically
Monstera can generally handle more light than a lot houseplants — more than other aroids. If you’re growing a big Monstera and you want fenestrations, grow lights are one of the best things you can do.
How far away should the light be?
It depends on the light. The cheaper and weaker the light, the closer it needs to be.
- Gooseneck / USB lights: 6–12 inches from the plant
- Sansi-style desk lights: 12–24 inches
- Mars Hydro / Bestva (suspended): 24–48 inches — the further away, the more plants it covers
Start further away and move closer if you’re not seeing a response. If leaves start bleaching or curling toward the light, it’s too close.
How many hours?
Aim for 6–16 hours depending on how much natural light your Monstera gets.
My setup: in deep winter, I run my grow light 6am–10am and 6pm–10pm. That’s 8 hours total, split to bookend the natural daylight. I use natural light as much as possible because it’s free.
In my north-facing window, I just do 8 hours from 2pm till 10pm. Plants needsleep too (ok, not true, but they do like to have a period of dark).
If your Monstera is in a very dark room with no natural light, you can push toward 14–16 hours, but I’d use a timer so you’re not thinking about it.
Signs it’s working
- New leaves appear more frequently
- Leaves are larger and develop more fenestrations
- The plant looks more upright and robust generally
Which plants need grow lights the most?
Not all houseplants benefit equally. Here’s a quick guide:
Plants that respond really well to grow lights
- Monstera deliciosa — thrives, grows faster, bigger fenestrations
- Pothos — grows noticeably faster, larger leaves
- Philodendrons — similar to Monstera, loves the extra light
- Calathea — grow lights can help them through difficult UK winters
- Most tropical aroids — generally positive response
Plants where grow lights are less critical
- ZZ plants — already adapted to low light; grow lights won’t hurt but don’t expect drama
- Snake plants — same as ZZ; tolerant of low light by design
- Cacti and succulents — these need very high light; a standard houseplant grow light usually isn’t strong enough to replace a south-facing window but they can be used to supplement
As a general rule: the more tropical the plant’s natural habitat, the more it’ll appreciate supplemental light in winter.
How to set up your grow lights — the practical bi
Setup depends on what you’ve bought, but here are the three main approaches:
Option 1: Suspend from the ceiling or a clothing rail
This is the most effective method for larger plants or big collections. A suspended Mars Hydro or Bestva can cover a lot of plants at once, and stronger lights work better at distance. It’s not the prettiest, but it’s the most efficient.
If you can’t fix anything to the ceiling, a clothing rail works well — that’s what I used for years.
Option 2: Shelf lights
Barrina-style strip lights fixed under shelves are the most aesthetically pleasing option. They’re ideal for plant shelves, Ikea cabinets, and anywhere you want the setup to look intentional. Less practical for large Monstera because they don’t fit on shelves — but you can park a big Monstera nearby and it’ll benefit.
Option 3: Desk lamp or gooseneck
The easiest starting point. A Sansi gooseneck or a regular lamp with a Sansi grow bulb is low-faff and low-commitment. Not the most powerful option, but genuinely useful for supplementing light in winter.
One tip that made a big difference for me: position your grow light opposite your window rather than between the plant and the window. That way the plant gets lit from two directions instead of one, and you’re not blocking natural light.
Frequently asked questions about grow lights
Yes — especially in winter if your home gets less than 6 hours of light a day. They won’t fix a bad watering habit, but they will meaningfully improve growth speed and reduce pest risk.
For supplemental light only. A regular LED bulb kept close to a plant for a few extra hours can help, but it won’t provide enough of the right spectrum to replace a dedicated grow light.
4–16 hours depending on your light’s strength and your plant’s needs. I run mine for 4–8 hours in winter, split across morning and evening, and let natural light do the rest.
No. Full-spectrum white lights work just as well and won’t give you a headache. Purple diodes are just cheaper to manufacture — that’s why they’re everywhere.
Let’s wrap it up
Grow lights are one of those purchases that feel like a luxury until the first winter your plants sail through without dropping a leaf. Then they feel essential.
Start with the Sansi gooseneck or bulb if you’re not sure — it’s low risk and you’ll see results. Scale up to the Mars Hydro or Bestva if you get serious about it.
Any questions, leave a comment below or find me on Instagram — I’m always happy to talk lights.
Want my printable grow light cheat sheet? It’s in the Plant Survival Kit — grab it free below:
